Krakow to Zakopane

5 January 2011 – Krakow

This morning we continued our exploration of the area immediately around Krakow's main market square.

The Basilica by day

Our first planned event for the day was a visit to Princes Czartoryski Museum. We’re on a mission to see all of the few remaining Leonardo da Vinci paintings in the world. Krakow has one and it’s in this museum. We were so excited as we made our way down the street. Excitement soon turned to disappointment as we read the sign on the door which said that the museum is currently undergoing renovation and will be closed for another month!! Perhaps we’ll have to come back to Krakow some other time – not such a bad thing!

The old town wall

Next stop was a visit to Wawel – a hilltop area with a beautiful castle and cathedral. For over 500 years, Polish monarchs were crowned here, ruled from here and were buried here. Our visit focused on the cathedral, which was consecrated in 1364. We really enjoyed climbing the bell tower to see the Sigismund Bell, which is 2m high, 2.5 m in diameter and weighs 11 tonnes.

Wawel

The cathedral

Sigismund Bell

Climbing the bell tower

From Wawel we made our way to Kazimierz – now an inner suburb or Krakow but once an independent town with its own laws. Within Kazimierz is an area which for centuries was the centre of Jewish culture – until the mass deportation and execution of Jews during WWII. In 1939 approximately 65,000 Jews lived in Krakow (mostly in Kazimierz). Only about 6000 survived the war. The architecture in this area is really beautiful.

Kazimierz

Our journey of discovery then took us across the river to Podgorze – another part of Krakow which is significant in terms of Jewish history. During WWII, approximately 15,000 Jews were forced to live here in a ghetto, and from here they were ‘selected’ to either stay or be put on a train destined for a concentration camp. Plac Bohaterow Getta is a square in the centre of this former ghetto – this is where the ‘selections’ took place. Now the area is somewhat of a memorial. It contains 70 empty chairs which represent the furniture and other possessions discarded by those destined for the camps.

While in Podgorze, we visited Oskar Schindler’s enamelware factory – which has now been turned into a museum of the occupation of Krakow. Only recently opened, this museum is very cutting edge. The exhibitions are extremely well thought out and life in Krakow has been represented very authentically. A must see.

As we had walked and walked all day – away from the centre of town – we had quite a walk back to the main market square for our evening’s entertainment – a piano recital in a beautifully restored house. The pianist was wonderful – the composer Chopin (quite appropriate for a visit to Poland, we thought) – the surroundings beautiful. A fabulous end to a fascinating day.

A quick snack (sausage on bread, of course) in the main market square - before the recital

The beautiful recital room

6 January – Auschwitz and Wieliczka

There are two ‘must see’ spots just outside of Krakow. One is Auschwitz which needs no introduction and the other is Wieliczka – a salt mine which has been in continual use for over 700 years. Today, we visited both of those sites.

A visit to Auschwitz is a life-changing experience. It has two parts – the original Auschwitz which was set up by the Germans in 1940 in pre-existing buildings (once Polish army barracks) and Birkenau (also referred to as Auschwitz II) which was purpose built 2km away in 1941 and 1942. Approximately 1.6 million people of 27 different nationalities were killed here. Of those, 1.1 million were Jews. We think the pictures below capture the mood.

Later in the afternoon we visited Wieliczka – the salt mine. This was well worth the journey. Our visit took us about 135m below ground (via nearly 400 steps) through a maze of tunnels and chambers – all carved by hand from salt. Some of the chambers have been carved into chapels, complete with statues and altarpieces. In all, we apparently walked for 2km and still only saw 1% of the total mine.

One of the many tunnels

A relief of The Last Supper - carved by a miner into the salt wall of an underground cathedral

A refreshment stop in an underground cafe carved into the salt - the 'deepest' beer Phil has ever had!

Finished our day with a great evening back in Krakow – a wonderful little café for dinner and then a visit to Piec ‘Art – a jazz club for a night cap. This has been a really enjoyable city to visit and we’d love to come back again.

7 January 2011 – Krakow to Zakopane

Today we commenced our journey into the Tatra mountains. We were up early and at Krakow’s coach station in time for our bus to Zakopane – Poland’s winter sports capital. Once a small mountain village, Zakopane became quite well known in the late 1800s when writers, composers and artists started to visit looking for inspiration.

Zakopane is about 850m above sea level. After exploring the beautiful village itself, marveling at the lovely wooden buildings and tasting the amazing food, we took the funicular to Mt Gubalowka – 300m higher. We had a great afternoon on the mountain watching the skiers and doing the usual silly things – snow-ball fights, making snow angels, building a snowman… Phil even tried one of the local specialities – hot beer with honey. Let’s just say he’s not really a fan.

Mmmm... hot beer... and drunk through a straw!!!

The funicular track

No explanation needed!

Meet Stanislaus - our Polish snowman

The beautiful 'Old Church' in Zakopane - built in 1851. A new church was built when the congregation outgrew this one.

Speaking of beer – a few friends have emailed us suggesting we should extend the original challenge of a new beer each day in England to include a new beer / drink for each country we visit while in this part of the world. Well – owing to popular demand – Phil has taken on this additional challenge. The results for Poland are:

New beers: Tyskie and Zywiec

New vodkas: Polonaise and Soplica

And so – tomorrow we head across the top of the Tatras into Slovakia! A new mountain village, a new language, new beers… We have no idea how we're going to get there - no transport arranged - no plans... Watch this space!

Rome to Krakow

1 January 2011 – Rome

Happy New Year!

Very little is open in Rome on New Year’s Day, so it was a perfect day for strolling and exploring new districts. Interestingly, lots of other people had the same idea so the atmosphere was very friendly and relaxed.

We chose to visit Trastevere – a beautiful area across the Tiber from the historical centre of Rome. First stop was the Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere – built in 1138. The 12^th-century gold mosaics that line parts of the ceiling are absolutely magnificent.

Basilica di Santa Maria - the exterior...

...and the beautiful interior

Next stop was made partly for the purpose of admiring a beautiful structure and partly for some kind of divine intervention. The Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere is the last resting place of St Cecilia – the patron saint of music. We live in hope that Louise’s guitar playing improves as a result of this visit!

Basilica di Santa Cecilia

Inside - we were treated to beautiful hymn singing

Wandered back across the Tiber via Isola Tiberina (a tiny island in the middle of the river) and through the beautiful Jewish part of Rome. Apparently Rome’s Jewish community is the longest surviving in Europe – consequently this is a wonderfully authentic district.

Looking across the Tiber to Isola Tiberina

Right in the middle of the Jewish district is the Teatro di Marcello – a beautiful ruined theatre originally planned by Julius Caesar and then completed by Augustus in 17 BC. Right beside that is the Portico d’Ottavia – built by Octavius in 146 BC and then rebuilt by Augustus in 23 BC. It’s simply amazing wandering the streets and stumbling across these wonders – and it seems that they’re everywhere in Rome.

Teatro di Marcello

Portico d'Ottavia

Finished the excursion with a visit to St Peter’s Basilica. This fantastic structure never ceases to amaze. To see the works of Raphael, Michelangelo and Bernini is an absolute treat.

Capped off the evening at Bar Parione (aka Louie’s). This is a great little spot we found last January and visited again in June. It’s owned by Ivano - a fascinating man (and poet) in his late 80’s who has led an amazing life. It is also known for serving the best Mojitos in Rome. We’re not really Mojito drinkers, but it’s worth visiting this place for the atmosphere and a chat with Ivano.

2 January 2010 – Rome

Up early for Sunday morning mass at St Peter’s. Can you believe it? Mass at the Vatican (when in Rome…). This was a real experience – such beautiful surroundings – sitting with nuns. Attending mass in another language can be a challenge so we made sure we sat far enough to the front to be able to see the proceedings, but far enough back to have some role models so we knew when to stand, sit and kneel. It’s amazing how much comes back to you, though – we even knew when to do ‘peace be with you’ and made some new friends!

After mass

Bernini's beautiful piazza

Looking across to the Castel Sant'Angelo and Ponte Sant'Angelo (built by Hadrian in 136 and improved by Bernini in the 17th century)

Spent the rest of the day wandering through the historical centre of Rome – oh and we also did some shopping…

Enjoying a coffee outside the Pantheon

Inside the Pantheon - the amazing structure built 2000 years ago

Capped off a great day with a last visit to Louie’s (not open on a Monday).

Enjoying the evening with Ivano

3 January 2011 – Rome

These few days in Rome were always designated ‘relaxation days’ and we continued in this vein today. It’s so lovely to just wander. Our philosophy in Rome is ‘you just can’t make a wrong turn’ – because no matter where you go, it’s simply amazing.

As well as finding some new little laneways and interesting areas, we also visited some old favourites.

The Spanish Steps

The Trevi Fountain - ensuring a return visit!

Finished the day exploring a completely new district across the Tiber. We could happily stay here for weeks!

Piazza del Popolo

4 January 2011 – Rome to Krakow

Our journey from Rome to Katowice with Wizz Air was very easy, as was the subsequent 100 km bus trip from Katowice to Krakow – our home for the next three nights.

Krakow is absolutely beautiful. Our accommodation is right on Rynek Glowny (Main Market Square) – the largest medieval town square in Europe.

Spent the afternoon exploring the square and surrounding laneways and enjoyed a visit to the Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady (aka St Mary’s Basilica) – built between the end of the 13^th century and the beginning of the 15^th century. This is one of the most remarkable churches we’ve ever seen. The interior is simply magnificent – the highlight being a beautiful altarpiece (a pentaptych) which is opened out every day at 11:50am and closed at 6pm. It’s about 13m high and 11m wide and is made of beautifully carved, painted and gilded wood. Everything inside this basilica is stunning. Apparently Picasso described the high altar as the eighth wonder of the world.

The beautiful altarpiece

The detail...

Also managed to fit in another couple of visits to beautiful little churches that surround the town square. In an embarrassing moment, Louise sat down on an available seat just inside the door of one church to read the guidebook and then realised she was in the queue for confession!

We’re really looking forward to exploring more of this beautiful city over the next couple of days!